DISCOVERED
Cute as they are, the deer are somewhat destructive. Once dominated by balsam fir, the forests on Anticosti have largely transitioned to white spruce since the deer have a penchant for tender fir sprouts. What’s more, during our visit, the tap water was under a boil order due to contamination from the deer population. Efforts to manage their numbers have resulted in the island becoming very popular with hunters, who are all but guaranteed success. Hunting is not only important for population control, but it also serves as the island’s primary source of revenue. When driving throughout the island, it’s crucial to keep a watchful eye for deer, since they could dart out at any time and rearrange my Toyota’s nose. And while the primary road – the Route de l’Île d’Anticosti – is well maintained with regular grading and broad swaths of brush cleared on either side, the offshoot paths vary from decent gravel to rugged, rocky tracks. For the most part, the 4Runner Trailhunter’s offroad prowess was overkill, but a couple of flat tires reinforced the importance of serious all-terrain rubber when exploring places as remote as this. Fortunately, with a patch kit and the Trailhunter’s highly effective on-board compressor, the punctures were no more than a mild inconvenience. Otherwise, it was great having a rig that could tackle any trail we encountered.
The cold gulf waters surrounding Anticosti are frequented by a dozen or so different types of whales, and during the ferry ride from Havre-Saint-Pierre to Port-Menier, visitors are often treated to a show from the giant mammals. But it’s also a nautical zone that’s earned the dubious moniker as the Graveyard of the Gulf, with the rocky shoreline and fearsome reefs having claimed more than 400 ships over the years. Today, besides the collection of lighthouses in varying states of repair, the Wilcox , a minesweeper, and the Calou , a
"The serenity of the place makes it well worth the effort to get there.”
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